byNUT GUIDE · BLEMISHES AND BREAKOUTS

Blemishes and breakouts: first, identify which type you have.

Blackheads, inflamed spots and deep lesions don't call for the same response. Telling them apart helps you choose better and also know when skincare falls short.

BEFORE TREATMENT

What happens when a breakout appears?

Blemishes and breakouts can appear when the follicle becomes clogged with sebum and skin cells and inflammation develops. Depending on how they present, we talk about comedones, papules, pustules or deeper lesions.

Before trying to dry out a spot, look at which type of lesion predominates and how your skin is responding.

A useful routine aims to address clogging and inflammation without adding unnecessary irritation.

Before choosing a treatment, look at three things: which lesions predominate, how your skin tolerates actives and what you're already using.

CloggingComedones appear when the follicle gets blocked.

InflammationPapules and pustules add a visible inflammatory component.

DepthNodules, pain or scars change the picture and warrant a dermatological assessment.

HOW THEY PRESENT

First, separate clogging, inflammation and deep lesions.

Comedones, inflammatory lesions and deep lesions require different approaches. Identifying them helps you choose your care better and know when a skincare routine isn't enough.

01 · COMEDONES

Blackheads and whiteheads.

What they are. Non-inflammatory lesions linked to a clogged follicle. A blackhead isn't dirt: the contents of the open comedone oxidize when exposed to air.

What should I do? Keep cleansing gentle and avoid trying to “empty” your pores. If blackheads and whiteheads predominate, salicylic acid can help unclog pores and remove built-up cells. Start slowly if your skin is sensitive.

AM · cleanse → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → treat → moisturize

02 · PAPULES AND PUSTULES

When the breakout becomes inflamed.

What they are. Inflammatory lesions: papules are inflamed bumps and pustules contain visible pus.

What should I do? Don't squeeze them or pile on exfoliants trying to dry them out. For inflammatory acne there are treatments with stronger medical backing, such as benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids; azelaic acid can also be useful in certain cases. If breakouts are numerous, persistent or painful, it's worth seeking a dermatological assessment.

AM · cleanse → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → treat → moisturize

03 · DEEP LESIONS

Pain, nodules or scars: change the plan.

What it means. Acne with deep, persistent lesions or a tendency to scar may need medical treatment and shouldn't be approached as a purely cosmetic problem.

What should I do? Keep a gentle routine and seek a dermatological assessment. It's also worth seeing a professional when acne doesn't improve with appropriate care or has a significant impact on your wellbeing.

AM · cleanse → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → moisturize

MORE ISN'T BETTER

Breakout-prone skin can also get irritated.

A product that stings, dries or makes your skin peel isn't necessarily working better. Some acne treatments can irritate at first, so it's best to introduce them gradually and adjust the frequency to your skin's tolerance.

Cleansing more, exfoliating more or trying to “dry out” every spot doesn't control a breakout any better. Hydration is part of a routine for breakout-prone skin and can help improve tolerance to treatments that dry or irritate.

And there's one simple rule worth repeating: don't pick at spots. Persistent scratching or squeezing increases the risk of scarring.

NOW, THE PRODUCTS

Products by type of breakout and your skin's tolerance.

The goal isn't to build an entire routine of anti-acne products. It's to choose what fits the breakout you have, your tolerance and the other products you already use.

CLEANSING · SALICYLIC ACID

Abib · Acne Foam Cleanser Heartleaf

A slightly acidic pH cleanser formulated with salicylic acid, heartleaf and centella asiatica. A cleansing option for blemish-prone skin.

View product →

BREAKOUT + MARK · AZELAIC 10%

Purito · Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum

A formula with 10% azelaic acid, 10% tea tree water and 1,000 ppm kojic acid. The brand positions it for blemishes, redness and post-breakout marks.

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BLEMISHES · AZELAIC + LHA

Abib · Clear Spot Serum 7.325

Its INCI includes azelaic acid, succinic acid, panthenol and LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid). The brand formulates it for skin prone to blemishes and redness.

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AZELAIC 10% · TONE AND REDNESS

Anua · Azelaic Acid 10% Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum

A serum with 10% azelaic acid, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate and centella derivatives. The brand positions it for redness, blemishes and excess sebum control.

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SPOT TREATMENT

AXIS-Y · Spot The Difference Blemish Treatment

A spot treatment whose INCI includes niacinamide, tea tree extract, terpinen-4-ol, glycolic acid and salicylic acid. The brand positions it for visible redness, dark spots and blemishes.

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PATCH · LOCAL PROTECTION

Mixsoon · Spot Clean Care Patch

A hydrocolloid patch that absorbs fluid and creates a physical barrier over the blemish. It can protect the area from friction and picking, but it doesn't replace treatment for persistent or moderate-to-severe acne.

View product →

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Frequently asked questions about blemishes and breakouts.

Does a blackhead mean the pore is dirty?

No. A blackhead is an open comedone; its dark color comes from the oxidation of the follicle's contents, not from poor hygiene.

Does salicylic acid help with spots?

Yes, especially when blackheads and whiteheads predominate. Salicylic acid helps unclog pores and remove built-up cells. The right frequency depends on the concentration, the product and how your skin tolerates it.

And azelaic acid?

It can be useful because it helps reduce inflammation and keep pores clear. It can also improve the dark marks left after some spots.

Should I dry out my spots?

No. Irritating or drying out the skin isn't the goal of treatment. An anti-breakout routine should be tolerable and sustainable; if an active irritates, you may need to use it less often or rethink the combination.

How long does acne take to improve?

Acne doesn't change overnight. With many treatments it takes 6 to 8 weeks of consistent use to start seeing improvement.

When should I see a dermatologist?

If there are nodules or deep, painful lesions, scars, persistent acne that doesn't respond, doubts about the diagnosis or a significant impact on your wellbeing, a professional assessment is advisable.

YOU MAY ALSO FIND THIS HELPFUL

Breakouts can also leave marks or come with sensitivity.

If breakouts leave marks, see dark spots. If your skin gets irritated easily, go to sensitivity and redness.

NOT SURE WHERE TO START

Start with the type of breakout, not the trendy product.

NUT takes into account your type of breakout, your skin's condition and your preferences to help you organize a routine without mixing actives for the sake of it.

Create your routine with NUT →

Educational and cosmetic content. It does not replace a dermatological diagnosis or treatment. Acne that is deep, painful, persistent, scarring or that worries you should be assessed by a healthcare professional.

SOURCES

American Academy of Dermatology. Acne clinical guideline.
Reynolds RV, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. JAAD. 2024.
NICE. Acne vulgaris: management (NG198). Updated 2026.
Abib. Clear Spot Serum 7.325.
Purito Seoul. Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum.
AXIS-Y. Spot The Difference Blemish Treatment.
Anua. Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum.
Abib. Acne Foam Cleanser Heartleaf.
Mixsoon. Spot Clean Care Patch.

Images: skin macros created for byNUT as educational visual references; they cannot be used to diagnose a skin condition.