byNUT GUIDE · DARK SPOTS

Dark spots on skin: first, identify what you're looking at.

A mark left after a breakout, a solar lentigo and melasma can look alike, but they don't behave the same way. Telling the context apart keeps you from choosing products blindly.

BEFORE TREATMENT

What is a dark spot?

When we talk about dark spots, we usually mean areas where pigmentation increases and the skin looks darker than the surrounding area. Different mechanisms can be behind them: inflammation, sun exposure or, in the case of melasma, a combination of factors.

Appearance gives clues, but context matters just as much. A mark that appears after a spot doesn't tell the same story as a lentigo linked to accumulated sun exposure or melasma that keeps coming back.

At byNUT, that's where we start: what type of pigmentation it might be, what comes with it and what your skin tolerates before deciding on the next step.

01
InflammationA breakout or an injury can leave post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
02
RadiationAccumulated sun exposure is closely linked to solar lentigines and can darken other hyperpigmentation.
03
MelasmaIt is multifactorial: radiation is an important trigger, and hormonal factors and individual predisposition can also play a part.
TYPES OF DARK SPOTS

Three types of dark spots worth telling apart.

Here are the main differences and what usually makes sense in each case.

01 · POST-INFLAMMATORY

After the breakout, the mark remains.

What it is. A darker area that appears after inflammation or an injury to the skin, for example after a spot.

What should I do? Avoid further irritation, protect from the sun and choose a few well-tolerated actives. Azelaic acid can help improve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and is especially useful when there is also a tendency to blemishes.

AM · cleanse → treat → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → treat → moisturize

02 · LENTIGINES / SUN SPOTS

The imprint of accumulated exposure.

What it is. Solar lentigines are well-defined pigmented spots that often appear on areas that have had repeated sun exposure.

What should I do? Sun protection is the foundation for limiting further pigment stimulation. From there, a skincare routine can focus on improving the appearance of uneven tone without overloading the skin.

AM · cleanse → tone treatment → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → treat → moisturize

03 · MELASMA

When pigmentation tends to come back.

What it is. Melasma is an acquired hyperpigmentation that usually affects the face. It is multifactorial and can return even after it has improved.

What should I do? Consistent sun protection, gentle non-irritating care and a sustainable treatment strategy. Some topical actives, including azelaic acid and tranexamic acid, have been studied for melasma. If you suspect melasma, a dermatologist can confirm the diagnosis and assess which treatment is right for you.

AM · cleanse → treat → moisturize → sun protection
PM · cleanse → treat → moisturize

THE STEP WE DON'T NEGOTIATE

Why do we talk so much about sun protection?

Because UV radiation stimulates pigmentation and can make some spots darken or persist. That's why daily sun protection is part of any coherent strategy against hyperpigmentation.

With melasma there's one more nuance: visible light can also contribute to pigmentation, especially in higher skin phototypes. In this context, tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides can provide additional protection against visible light.

Treating dark spots doesn't end with the serum: it needs sun protection.

NOW, THE PRODUCTS

Products by type of spot and the function you're looking for.

This isn't a list to use in full. Each option meets a different need and should fit your skin and what you already use.

Purito Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree SerumPOST-BREAKOUT · AZELAIC

Purito · Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum

10% azelaic acid combined with kojic acid. It makes particular sense when the goal is to work on blemishes and the appearance of the post-inflammatory marks they leave.

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Numbuzin No.5+ Glutathione Vitamin Concentrated SerumUNEVEN TONE

Numbuzin · No.5+ Glutathione Vitamin Concentrated Serum

An option from our catalog aimed at radiance and uneven tone. We position it as a complementary cosmetic treatment, not a substitute for sun protection or dermatological treatment.

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Dr. Althea Melaclear CreamTXA · NIACINAMIDE · ARBUTIN

Dr. Althea · Melaclear Cream

A cream with tranexamic acid, niacinamide and alpha-arbutin. An option to work on the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone at the cream step.

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Abib Clear Spot Serum 7.325POST-BREAKOUT · AZELAIC

Abib · Clear Spot Serum 7.325

A formula with azelaic acid, succinic acid, LHA and panthenol, designed by the brand for skin prone to blemishes and redness. We especially reserve it for the breakout + subsequent mark context.

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Haruharu Wonder Centella 4% TXA Gel SerumTXA 4% · NIACINAMIDE

Haruharu Wonder · Centella 4% TXA Gel Serum

Contains 4% tranexamic acid and niacinamide, plus centella derivatives and vitamin C. The brand positions it to improve the appearance of dark spots and uneven tone.

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AXIS-Y TXA 2.5% Intensive Brightening CreamTXA 2.5% · NIACINAMIDE 2.5%

AXIS-Y · TXA 2.5% Intensive Brightening Cream

The brand states 2.5% tranexamic acid and 2.5% niacinamide; the formula also contains glutathione, panthenol and ceramide NP. It is aimed at improving the appearance of uneven tone.

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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What usually raises questions.

How can I tell what type of dark spot I have?

Context gives clues: a mark after a breakout may be post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; lentigines usually appear in areas of accumulated sun exposure; and melasma usually shows up as more extensive, recurring facial pigmentation. If it isn't clear what type of lesion it is, the right thing to do is to see a dermatologist.

Do acne marks go away?

The pigmented marks left after a breakout can fade gradually, although the time it takes varies. Avoiding further irritation and protecting your skin from the sun helps keep them from darkening.

Which actives help with dark spots?

It depends on the type of pigmentation and on how well your skin tolerates actives. Actives used to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation include azelaic acid, kojic acid, retinoids and vitamin C. Other actives, such as niacinamide and topical tranexamic acid, are also used in formulas for uneven tone, although the evidence depends on the type of spot and the formulation.

Are melasma and sun spots the same thing?

No. Solar lentigines are closely linked to accumulated sun exposure. Melasma is a multifactorial hyperpigmentation that usually affects the face and can come back.

Why is sunscreen so important for dark spots?

Because UV radiation can stimulate pigmentation and make some spots darken or persist. With melasma, visible light can also contribute to pigmentation.

When should I see a dermatologist about a spot?

If a spot is new, changes, causes symptoms, has edges or colors that worry you, or you simply don't know what it is, it's best to have it assessed by a healthcare professional.

YOU MAY ALSO FIND THIS HELPFUL

If there are also breakouts or a lack of radiance, look at the bigger picture.

If the spots appear after a breakout, see blemishes and breakouts. If you want to work on your overall tone, go to radiance.

NOT SURE WHERE TO START

Start by knowing what you're treating.

NUT takes your skin, your goals and your preferences into account to help you choose a clear routine and avoid products you don't need.

Create your routine with NUT →

Educational and cosmetic content. It does not replace a dermatological diagnosis. Any spot that is new, changing, irregular, symptomatic or that worries you should be assessed by a healthcare professional.

SOURCES
  1. American Academy of Dermatology. Melasma: self-care.
  2. American Academy of Dermatology. How to make melasma less noticeable.
  3. Calacattawi R, et al. Tranexamic acid for melasma: systematic review and meta-analysis. 2024.
  4. Topical and Systemic Therapies in Melasma: systematic review.
  5. Efficacy and safety of topical agents in melasma: systematic review and meta-analysis.
  6. American Academy of Dermatology. How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones.
  7. DermNet. Lentigo.
  8. Purito Seoul. Azelaic Acid 10 Kojic Tea Tree Serum.
  9. Numbuzin. No.5+ Glutathione Vitamin Concentrated Serum.
  10. Haruharu Wonder. Centella 4% TXA Gel Serum.
  11. AXIS-Y. TXA 2.5% Intensive Brightening Cream.
  12. Abib. Clear Spot Serum 7.325 · ficha byNUT.

Images: skin macros created for byNUT as educational visual references; they cannot be used to diagnose a skin condition.